Aston Sheds Zone - Cheap Wooden Garden Sheds For Sale in Birmingham

Aston Shed Zone is a Birmingham company. We sell a large selection of wooden pre-made garden sheds for sales as well as playhouses. Installation available on most wooden buildings, plus cheap delivery within our 20 mile radius. Order from us now and get your brand new garden shed!

maintenance

GARDEN SHED CARE: PREVENTING DAMP AND REMOVING MOULD

maintenanceGraham WrightComment

A timber shed is a charming addition to an outdoor space, and a common feature of gardens up and down the country. However, damp and mould can be the downfall of these attractive outhouses, which can leave homeowners searching for answers to combat this problem. To help you rid yourself of these issues, we’ve put together this quick guide to how to remove mould and prevent damp in your garden shed.

WHAT CAUSES DAMP?

As the name suggests, damp is caused by damp conditions and is most prevalent during seasons where moisture is more common in the air – such as in winter and spring. Wood is the most susceptible material to damage by moist conditions, and damp can cause premature rot, mould and cause the timber structure to become misshapen or sag. These problems can also be exacerbated by wet weather and lack of airflow through a shed.

HOW CAN I PREVENT DAMP IN MY GARDEN SHED?

Sheds can sometimes be abandoned for months on end, especially in the colder seasons, meaning that no fresh air flow is entering the building. This stagnant air can hold a lot of moisture which then condenses and causes mildew and mould. To prevent this, try and get some air circulating by leaving windows open, blowing a fan in the shed, or even drilling some holes in the upper walls (covering them with mesh to keep pests out).

A common problem in timber sheds is rising damp, when water from the ground is absorbed through the floor bearers and up into the floor. To deter this, there are some things you can do during shed construction. Try and get some kind of barrier built between the shed floor and the ground, or try and get a gravel base installed to allow water to permeate freely through it to prevent pooling. Ensure any paving or concrete slabs are set as levelly as possible to allow rainwater to flow away easily.

There are also some simple tool-care tasks that can help; keep them dry and disinfected to avoid mould formation.

HOW DO I REMOVE MOULD FROM MY GARDEN SHED?

It is imperative that mould is removed from wooden structures as soon as it’s detected; if left for too long, then it may become more entrenched and permanently damage the timber.

  • First, you need to make sure you are protected from inhaling the mould spores, so try and wear a surgical or ski mask during the operation. Also wear gloves if possible.

  • Secondly, try and protect your plants. If you are removing mould from the outside of your shed, then the cleaning solution you decide to use may settle on surrounding vegetation and damage it. Before you begin, hose down your plants to discourage the chemicals from sticking to them and causing problems.

  • Opinions vary on the makeup of the cleaning solution, but a rough guide is 1 cup of bleach to every gallon of water – that, or you can use a mould cleaner. Use either a handheld spray bottle or a garden sprayer to apply this. Scrub with a sponge, and then hose or scrub down afterwards with clean water….READ MORE

How to treat roof timber mould

Generally, water leaks and poor ventilation, leading to Condensation, are the main roof defects which give rise to a variety of fungi, moulds and insect attacks. Re-roofing with lining (lining papers, 'sarking', roofing felt) can cause severe mold growth and rot due to reduced ventilation.

Excessive ceiling insulation, pushed down into the roof edges, can also cause Condensation and Mold Growth, because it frequently blocks off the eaves or soffit ventilation.

Heavy Insulation on the ceiling also reduces the amount of warmth reaching the roof space, so that the point at which Condensation forms is reached earlier in cold weather, particularly at night.

Most buildings were designed for minimal or no ceiling Insulation, so do not have sufficient ventilation to cope with additional Insulation, as recommended by Government experts. Additional vents can be fitted, but care is needed to find a working balance, or the Mould may become worse.

Treatment


Mould  - white, blue or black spots on timber, lining felt, masonry: indicates condensation - increase ventilation, (add soffit or ridge vents), apply Mould Cleaner, treat with  Boracol  10RH .

Mould - white, blue or black spots on timber, lining felt, masonry: indicates condensation - increase ventilation, (add soffit or ridge vents), apply Mould Cleaner, treat with Boracol 10RH.

Typical Roof Mould - damp cold timber, Condensation = Mold Growth

Typical Roof Mould - damp cold timber, Condensation = Mold Growth

Note the roofing felt - many old roofs are upgraded by installing roof lining felt - this

causes a huge reduction in ventilation - Condensation - then mold growth….READ MORE

HOW TO PREVENT YOUR SHED FROM ROTTING

maintenanceGraham WrightComment
rotting garden shed.png

Garden sheds are an essential part of everyone’s garden. Especially for those who have garden tools and equipment to store. However, wooden sheds can have many functions, depending on how the owner chooses to use it. Taking proper care of your garden shed is a must if you want them to last. Wood rot is one of the most common problems shed owners have to deal with, but there are ways you can prevent this happening in the first place.

How to prevent your shed from rotting

1. Place the garden shed off the ground on a strong sturdy foundation along with pavers if possible. With the shed above the ground, rain will not sit against the outside walls which could cause possible rotting.

2. Use treated wood lumber as it is more effective against rotting.

3. Place the garden shed in a sunny location so that heat can dry up moisture after rainfall. Avoid placing a shed on the bottom of a slope as water will run down towards the shed leading to rotting.

4. Water-repellent sealers can be sprayed or painted onto the wood. Do this frequently. Be sure that the seal covers the ends of the wood.

Making sure to take care of your garden shed will inevitably make it last longer, and the shed will be able to serve your needs for many more summers. A garden shed really can help everyone in your home and add life to your garden. Follow these tips and don’t lose your shed to rot! (You should also consider shed insulation to keep your shed from rotting because of humidity).

Disclaimer: Please note that this guide is intended to present general information regarding the subject. All information indicated are representative and not exhaustive, which means that the results may vary depending on your item, its size, complexity and other circumstances. This is only advice and we do no accept responsibility for any problems you may have whilst following this guide, it is only a representation and not a definitive guide. When in doubt, please ask your manufacturer before proceeding…READ MORE

Replacing Shed Roof Felt

maintenanceGraham WrightComment
shed needs felting.png

Shed Roof Felting, replacing worn and split felt on the roof of a shed, is essential if you want your tools and other garden equipment to stay in good condition. You should aim to check the condition of your shed roof felt at least once a year. Doing this will allow you to spot potential problems early, rather than waiting until water starts to drip into the shed.

Depending on whether your shed is in a sheltered position or not, you might need to replace the roofing feltas often as every 2-3 years. However, buying good quality felt and doing a good job of fitting it should mean that maintenance will be required much less often.

If you just want to patch a hole in otherwise good felt, take a look at our Patching Roof Felt guide or our guide to Repairing Roof Felt for some general flat roof repair tips.

Removing the Old Felt and Nails

The first thing you need to do is remove the old, worn felt from the roof. Generally, the felt is tacked all the way along each edge. Locate and pry loose all of the nails using a small pry bar or a claw hammer. It is a good idea to wear goggles and safety gloves while doing this as old felt can throw off a lot of small bits of grit as it is moved around. If any of the heads break off of the nails, hammer them below the surface of the wood so that there are no sharp points to rip the new felt. With all of the nails removed you can strip the old felt off the roof.

Check the Timber

Have a good look at the exposed timber (especially where there were holes in the felt) and make sure that it is sound. If any of the timber needs to be replaced, do so now. If the timber planks are tongue and groove, you will need to cut through the tongue with a hammer and sharp chisel before you can lift the board out. Measure the existing timber planks and cut a new piece to match, either a new tongue and groove piece (cutting one of the tongues off) or a straight piece of softwood. Nail this in place using galvanised screws or nails, making sure that the heads are flush with or below the surface of the wood.

If there is damage to one of the fascia boards around the edge of the roof, or is one of them is missing, cut a new one from a matching piece of wood and paint it with wood preserver before nailing it in place. It is also a good idea to take the chance to treat the rest of the roof timber with a coat of wood preserver. Let this dry completely before continuing.

Laying the New Felt (ridged roof)

Unroll your new sheet of felt and measure out the length of the roof. Rolls of felt are not often available as wide as a shed roof, so you will need to cut more than one piece to cover the whole roof. Make sure that any section of felt you cut has about 50 mm extra on each edge to allow the joints to be sealed well. You can cut felt easily enough with a Stanley knife and a straight-edge.

felt roof sections.png

Cut one piece for the first side of the roof and nail it along the fascia at 50mm intervals. Smooth it out flat onto to the roof and nail along the top edge, spacing your galvanised nails at about 150mm. Smooth the felt over the sides of the shed and nail it into place.

Depending on how large the roof of your shed is, you may need to lay a second (or even third) strip of felt, overlapping the first, to take it up to just below the ridge (you need to finish about 50mm back from the ridge). To lay this second strip, overlap the first by about 50mm, making sure that the nail heads are covered by the overlap. Chalk a line along the edge of it and brush roofing felt adhesive onto this marked margin. Fix the second strip onto the felt adhesive, spread it out carefully over the roof and nail along the edges and top as you did for the first strip. Don’t nail through the overlap or you risk it not being waterproof. Press down firmly along the adhesive line to squeeze out any air bubbles. Repeat this for the other side of the roof.

Where the two pieces of felt meet near the ridge, cut a strip of felt the length of the roof and about 200mm wide. Spread strong, waterproof mastic sealer on the underside of the felt strip and also a little along the nail lines at the ridge. Now use this strip to “cap” the ridge, pressing it down firmly and evenly. This strip should completely cover the nails. If you need to cut it a bit wider than 200 mm, do so. It is better to overlap too much than not enough.

Replacing Felt on a Flat Roof

If your shed has a pent roof (flat, with no ridge) you can apply the felt in exactly the same way as you would for one side of a pitched roof.

Start at the lowest edge and nail your felt along the fascia. Spread the felt flat onto the roof and nail along the top edge of the felt. Spread adhesive along this top edge in a 50 mm strip and apply the next strip of felt. The bottom edge of this second strip will sit in the 50mm of adhesive and the top should be nailed as before. Continue to do this until you reach the opposite edge of the flat roof.

Smooth the felt over the edge and nail in onto the fascia here. You can then go along the sides of the shed and nail the felt into the sides of the roof. Trim off any excess felt. The edges should be nailed in the same way as a ridged roof, i.e. into the edges of the wood rather than the face.

Roofing Felt

Roofing felt suitable for sheds is available in a number of colours, thicknesses and types. Most roof felt is bitumen coated and then finished with a coloured mineral (usually green or grey). The mineral finish both makes the felt more appealing and helps to stop the felt being damaged by UV rays. Better quality felt may by reinforced with polyester as well as bitumen and, depending on the location, could last for up to 15 years. However, you could find yourself paying two or three times as much for this type of felt.

Roofing Felt Adhesive

There are two main kinds of DIY roofing felt adhesive available, paint on and trowel on. Both are applied cold and do essentially the same job, but paint on adhesive is much easier to work with. For joining the sheets of felt on a shed roof, the paint on adhesive is perfectly acceptable (and generally much cheaper than the trowel on type)….READ MORE

HOW TO TREAT A SHED

maintenanceGraham WrightComment

If your existing shed has battled against winter storms and is looking a little worse for wear, it will probably need brushing up with some wood preserver. It’s important to revive a shed with treatment and keep it protected from the elements. Shed treatment protects against damaging UV rays, which can cause wood to grey over time. It also protects from bad weather which can cause wood to split and crack if untreated.

man painting shed.png

How often will my shed need treatment?

Unless your wooden shed is made from cedar or pressure treated timber it is recommended you should treat it regularly. When you first purchase a new shed, if it has not already been treated, apply treatment straight away and continue to apply it every year after. This will help to prolong the life of the shed as well as keeping your items safely stored inside. Treating the external timber with a good quality wood stain or preserve is the best way to keep the shed protected from all kinds of weather damage.

Types of shed treatment

Whatever your budget, there are some excellent wood preserver products which are either solvent or oil-based. Ronseal Shed and Fence Preserver is great for making a shed waterproof and protecting it from rot. It can be used on rough, sawn or smooth timbers and will soak deeply into the wood. The application is easy. Simply brush it on or spray using a garden spray system.

If you can get the job done in a day then it’s still a cost effective way of doing large areas quickly. You can also use a wood preservative on the inside of your shed for a belt-and-braces wood preserver job. If you are treating the inside of the shed, be sure to allow for good ventilation. Keep the shed’s windows and doors open during the treatment of the shed and drying.

Treating new sheds

It’s recommended that you should always treat your new shed with a good quality, water resistant wood treatment. Exterior wood oils and decking oils can offer additional protection if used over the top of a wood preservative. Wait for 24 to 48 hours before applying any oil based products over the wood preservative.

Exterior wood dye for sheds

Exterior wood stains and varnishes will protect sheds, decking and any other type of exterior wood. These usually have a semi-translucent matt finish and can come in all sorts of natural colours. They repel water and have UV filters to help prevent your shed going grey. They also work on hard and soft wood. Best of all, they are really easy to apply with a brush or roller.

Wood preserving paints are also much better for sheds than ordinary gloss paints. They are more flexible, resist cracking, peeling and flaking and don’t need a primer or undercoat. They can also be painted over existing gloss paint or wood stain. Once applied, leave to dry for around four hours, until it delivers an opaque finish. Good quality wood preserving paints will give your garden shed up to eight years of protection!

How to apply treatment

1: Preparing your Garden Shed

This step can be skipped if you are applying treatment to a brand new shed. On an older shed, after giving it a clean up, apply caulk where needed to cover all the gaps. Making the shed waterproof is important so it doesn’t let in rain or snow. If you’re using a silicon-based caulk, or something similar, you should wait about a day or so after applying the sealant for it to dry. Use sandpaper to chip away at loose or patchy paint that may have been left behind from previous paint jobs.

2: Apply Wood Primer

The next step is applying an oil-based primer. As well as providing an extra layer of protection against the elements, the primer makes it easier for you to spread the paint evenly.

3: Paint your shed

Once the primer is dry, apply the first coat of paint – in dry conditions, above 5°C. Use a long-nap roller to spread the paint with the grain of the wood and move around the shed covering all the building. After this, it will be ready for the second, and final, coat of paint. Apply it in the same way as the first, making sure the paint is distributed evenly….READ MORE

Large wooden garden shed 15 x 8 foot, delivered to the delighted Bennett family from Gloucestershire.

maintenance, Large shedsGraham WrightComment

This week we paid a visit to the Bennett family from gloucestershire. After much delibaration they decided to order a 15x8 The swanage apex storage shed. After a lenghty conversation with one of our collegues, the bennetts decided the swanage apex shed provided the finish both were looking for to complete there garden shed project. 

https://www.astonsheds.co.uk/wooden-sheds/frwl6-wr33k